Aquarium Setup Guide

Selecting Your Tank

For beginners, a freshwater aquarium is probably better than saltwater because it is easier to set up. The only real advantage of a saltwater tank is that saltwater fish are more diverse, exhibiting vibrant colors and exotic appeal. Their living conditions, however, require a steeper learning curve to appropriate--steeper than this article is prepared to ascend. We'll keep it fresh and simple. . .

Random Aquarium Facts and Trivia:

• hermatypic - Refers to organisms that contain zooxanthellae. This usually means they need strong light to thrive.
• Alkalinity: This is the measure of a solution's resistance to changes in pH. It is commonly measured as carbonate alkalinity or total alkalinity, and is expressed in meq, dKH, or ppm of C03 ions. The alkalinity can be raised by adding a buffer.

Setting Up A Freshwater Aquarium

The first thing to do is select a tank. Buy as large a tank as you can afford. The bigger tanks are easier to clean and manage (believe it or not). More importantly, the number and variety of fish you can have hinges entirely on the size of your tank. A common newbie mistake

You'll need a few things to set up your freshwater tank. The most important is its filter system. Filtration is the heart of any tank. It cycles the water, treating and removing contaminates. A filter kit that includes hoses, pump(s), carbon filter cartridges and attachments can be readily purchased off the shelf. Ideally, the filter should be able to cycle the entire volume of the tank twice an hour. A ten gallon tank, for example, would require a 20 gallon-per-hour pump. Larger tanks (50+ gallons) might need two or more pumps for successful filtration.

Random Aquarium Facts and Trivia:

• polyp - A polyp is the living unit of a coral.
• Trace Elements: A term used to describe the many necessary elements in a marine aquarium; these are elements that occur naturally in small quantities in seawater. These are required for survival by many reef organisms, and include calcium, iodine, strontium, molybdenum, lithium, and barium.

Next, an aquarium should have a heater to maintain temperatures necessary for tropical fish (usually ranging from 68 to 80 degrees--see fish "specs" for details). With larger tanks (50+ gallons), more than one heater might be necessary. Heaters can be purchased from any pet store or department store with a pet section.

Other aquarium accessories include an optional aeration device (a small pump that pushes air through a bubble tube or sponge-like medium to create oxygenating bubbles and decor), substrate (aquarium pebbles or sand to line the bottom of the tank), and any tank decorations (backgrounds, bogs, reefs, rocks, centerpieces, driftwood, artificial plants, etc.).

Adding Fish

Once the tank has been assembled, its time to add the last component: the fish. Below are the extremely basic guidelines for tank population:

1. don't combine aggressive fish with non-agressive fish (these will be labeled at most pet stores)
2. don't overpopulate the tank--the rule of thumb is to provide one gallon of water for every inch of fish
3. don't add more than three new fish to the tank at a time, allowing a week between additions
4. ensure that all fish in the tank can handle a communal water temperature.

Random Aquarium Facts and Trivia:

• Byssus Gland - The structure in clams that produces fibrous threads (byssus) that attach the clam to substrate. Sometimes permanent although more usually temporary attachment of tough organic threads secreted from a gland in the foot of the clam.
• Silicate: Sometimes present in tapwater or certain substrates, silicates are nutrients that can create an algae problem, particularly brown algae. They can be tested for and removed with chemical resin media.

Okay, Now What?

In a word: maintenance. This includes three primary tasks that will need to be completed regularly to ensure fish longetivity.

1. Cleaning. A 10-20% percent tank water change (no more than 20%) will need to be performed weekly to flush out biotoxins. Organic waste eventually breaks down and pollutes aquarium water, despite filtration. Make sure to clean your filter meshes and scrub the glass to remove algae and fish water "scum" prior to water changeout.
2. Feeding. Different fish have different feeding requirements. Flake food will suffice for beginners--just don't feed too much! The leading cause of tank problems is overfeeding. Feed only enough food as can be gobbled up in two or three minutes. A pinch in the bottom of your palm is enough for most adolescent fish. Hint: Consider buying a few bottom feeder fish to assist in tank cleanup.
3. Chemical monitoring. Organic food and fish wastes (especially goldfish wastes) contain high concentrations of ammonia and nitrates, while tap water contains chlorine and chloramines, phospates and other harmful heavy metals. These chemicals must be combatted with routine water changes, carbon filtration and chemical treatments. A basic chemical treatment starter kit should include a pH stabilizer (powder or liquid), tap water conditioner, ammonia and nitrate removers, a carton of aquarium salt and a basic testing kit or internal tank meter. Best advice: visit your local pet store's fish chemicals shelf and study what's available.

Conclusion

The best advice to beginning aquariasts is to be patient. Research is a must for aquariasts to avoid problems later. Buy a book or two. Get your hands dirty. Remember: fish are just like any other pets; they require a little bit of work. Good luck!